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Las gaitas no se comen

EN GALICIA no se aprecia un riesgo inminente de turismofobia. No porque lo diga el presidente de la Xunta, Alberto Núñez Feijóo, sino porque nuestro nivel de colapso y saturación por la llegada de visitantes es todavía anecdótico y muy focalizado en lugares concretos como pueden ser tramos del Camino de Santiago, la propia capital gallega o Sanxenxo, como ejemplos más recurrentes. Pese al espectacular crecimiento experimentado por el sector turístico y a que la comunidad está de moda, la guerra abierta entre residentes y visitantes que se vive en lugares como la zona antigua de Barcelona o áreas de movida de Palma de Mallorca nos queda muy lejos y, con ella, también sus secuelas, especialmente una que se está poniendo muy de moda: la turismofobia o turistofobia.

Básicamente se trata de una especie de resistencia de los vecinos de un destino turístico que, hartos de las incomodidades que les generan los visitantes, se rebelan contra ellos. Para empezar conviene aclarar que no es nada nuevo, ya que en España se vivió desde finales de la década de los 50, porque es un movimiento que vino aparejado a aquel boom turístico ibérico que desembocó en lo que hoy parece una macrourbanización costera desde Huelva hasta Girona y que tuvo en Benidorm o Torremolinos sus máximas expresiones.

En los años posteriores también hubo movimientos turismofóbicos, pero estos casi siempre estuvieron ligados a colectivos medioambientales y ecologistas, que se oponían al sacrificio del patrimonio natural en favor de la especulación urbanística que traía aparejada el turismo.

Y así se llegó hasta la situación actual, donde la resistencia a la invasión ‘guiri’ tiene un origen de corte más social que antes. En el caso de Barcelona, la tercera ciudad que más visitantes recibió de Europa el año pasado, los residentes en el corazón de la zona vieja tienen que convivir desde hace tiempo con cientos de pisos turísticos —muchos de ellos ilegales con la complicidad del Ayuntamiento— cuyos inquilinos son mayoritariamente jóvenes que prolongan su fiesta durante las 24 horas. Vivir allí es, directamente, imposible, aseguran los perjudicados. Una situación extrapolable a Palma y que ahora amenaza con extenderse por el norte, con los primeros conatos de conflicto en el País Vasco.

Sin embargo, ese problema original de base social y vecinal ya empieza a adquirir tintes políticos. Las manifestaciones contra los turistas de Euskadi estuvieron ligadas a la izquierda abertzale y acciones como los pinchazos de ruedas de buses turísticos o las pintadas en otros lugares responden más al perfil de grupos radicales juveniles que a los vecinos que resisten en medio de los epicentros de movida que, dicho sea de paso, acostumbran a ser gente muy mayor.

Si a esto se suman los intereses económicos que empiezan a estar detrás de los pisos turísticos y la especulación inmobiliaria a raíz del nacimiento de plataformas como Airbnb, el resultado es la resurección de un viejo problema que adopta una nueva forma con múltiples frentes y con un dilema principal por resolver para los gobernantes y las autoridades de turno: ¿Prefiero el descanso de los vecinos o el dinero de los turistas?

→ ¿Por qué no en galicia?
Galicia tiene elementos diferenciadores que la convierten, por ahora, en un oasis. Para empezar, geográficamente está lejos del área mediterránea. Tampoco tiene seguro de sol y su clima, por muy loco que se esté volviendo, no es todavía de los que invitan a la fiesta al aire libre muchos meses del año, factor disuasor de las grandes hordas turísticas europeas que tanto dolor de cabeza provocan ya en otros destinos. Y dicho sea de paso, la nula coordinación aeroportuaria galaica propicia un mapa de rutas low cost poco orientado hacia este sector.

El resultado es que Galicia está de moda, pero para un turismo centrado en peregrinos y familias. A lo mejor es un perfil que no mueve tanto dinero, pero sí es más compatible con el descanso de los residentes autóctonos y es ahí donde reside la clave de la ausencia de conflictos, que de existir, son puntuales y ligados a los días de fiestas patronales o representativas de cada localidad. Solo en Sanxenxo empieza a surgir cierta preocupación por el desembarco masivo de despedidas de soltero y soltera, aunque la indignación es más por la imagen que se puede transmitir del municipio que por el propio choque de intereses turista-vecino.

→ el caso concreto de Santiago
En Galicia no hay colapso ni saturación turística y por ello tampoco turismofobia, pero la capital gallega merece un capítulo aparte; y más en concreto, su casco antiguo, Patrimonio de la Humanidad desde 1985. En él desembocan todos los caminos, que cada año atraen a más peregrinos, y también es destino preferente para los cruceristas que desembarcan en A Coruña y Vigo o para el turismo de congresos. Al final, de los cinco millones de visitantes que está recibiendo Galicia cada año un porcentaje elevadísimo pasa por la capital, que sin llegar a las cifras astronómicas de Venecia o Brujas sí supera ya a destinos como Valencia.

La consecuencia de esta invasión de la zona antigua no tiene nada que ver con los problemas de convivencia que se dan en Barcelona o Palma, sino con la paulatina modificación de la esencia de la propia ciudad. Dicho de forma directa por el propio alcalde, Martiño Noriega, el casco antiguo se está convirtiendo en "un parque temático". Una de las primeras medidas que adoptó en Raxoi —en mi opinión acertada— fue una moratoria para impedir más hoteles, hostales o tiendas de souvenirs, que poco a poco estaban devorando los negocios que prestaban servicios a los vecinos.

Ayer, el regidor volvió a pedir que se abra el debate de la posible aplicación una tasa turística, a la que la Xunta se niega. La verdad es que por un lado podría ‘aligerar’ un poco la concentración del casco viejo y, por el otro, permitiría subir la recaudación por esa vía y, por ejemplo, bajarla a través del Ibi. Sería una especie de justicia poética con la que un Ayuntamiento compensa a sus vecinos por las molestias turísticas. Incluso aplicable a destinos más humiles como Ribadeo, Viveiro o Foz, donde los que no viven directamente del sector sufren en julio y agosto las colas en el banco y el supermercado o la falta de aparcamiento.

Porque por mucho que el turismo nos aporte ya más del 11% del empleo y el PIB, eso no debe justificar en ningún caso que esa vecina mayor de la zona vieja de Santiago se tenga que mudar porque el supermercado que había debajo de su casa es hoy una tienda de souvenirs y gaitas de juguete. Que suenan muy bien, pero no se comen.

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